Travels with Ziggy
Tuesday, May 1, 2018
It is what it is....
This has been our mantra for the past month. We can't do anything about some bad luck, and are trying to make the best of a rotten situation.
It started on my first ride here in Girona on April 5. I managed to fall about 1 mile from home and really messed up my right leg. Walking almost impossible due to torn adductor muscles.
We had a wonderful week with Kate here. I was able to go to Paris for a few days to meet her, but my sightseeing was cut very short by my hobbled status and then food poisoning the last day. It was, what it was.....
Kate and Larry did some wonderful riding the week she was here, and we did some sightseeing one day in a rental car to see more of all things Dali and some of the beautiful Costa Brava.
On Kate's last day here we were able to do a short ride all together, and it felt so good. Still feeling frisky 2 days later, we teamed up with a friend we have met here. We had a fantastic ride through the countryside and I was back in my happy place. Then disaster struck again. Our friend was leading on the only busy road we had to ride, and he thought we were way behind him, so he stopped to see where we were. Sadly, we were right on his wheel, and I ran right into him and Larry into me. Yes, there were adorable ambulance drivers, yes, much scraped skin, a few stitches, a slight concussion, 8 hours in a cervical collar on a stretcher in the hospital trauma center, a head scan and many x-rays. Fortunately everything is basically ok except for my elbow and my re-torn adductor muscles. Walking is again an activity I can't partake in over a turtle's pace. It has been a week, and Larry and I are healing slowly.
A final note on all of this medical attention here in Spain..... My first clinic bill 3 weeks ago, which included 2 docs, several e-rays and a very streamlined visit to the clinic was 385 euro and the 8 hours in the hospital trauma center was 305 euros. Darn that socialized medicine we supposedly hate in the US. As a Spaniard, they pay 85 euro a month for their healthcare. And the healthcare was excellent.
I am hoping my slight dizziness will abate soon and that Larry's elbow and hip will feel better that we can once again hit the road..... but keeping the rubber side down this time.
Sunday, April 29, 2018
Girona, lifestyles of the healthy and happy
Editor's note... (me)
This was my last post LAST year, that I have discovered I never finished) I am going to publish it now, then have a follow up on what is happening in our life in Girona now.
What a wonderful month we have had in beautiful Girona (Gerona). I will challenge Disneyland's claim of "The happiest place on earth" with life in this beautiful Catalan city.
Every afternoon, after bike riding or strolling the medieval city, we sit on the Rambla for a "canya" (small draft beer) and watch the world go by. A few observations about the Spanish population.
This was my last post LAST year, that I have discovered I never finished) I am going to publish it now, then have a follow up on what is happening in our life in Girona now.
What a wonderful month we have had in beautiful Girona (Gerona). I will challenge Disneyland's claim of "The happiest place on earth" with life in this beautiful Catalan city.
Every afternoon, after bike riding or strolling the medieval city, we sit on the Rambla for a "canya" (small draft beer) and watch the world go by. A few observations about the Spanish population.
- If you are a woman under 60, your jeans are skinny. Your shoes are stylish.
- A woman under 30, your jeans will have the obligatory ripped knees and your shoes will be platform.
- Under 20, and this is going to come as very sad news to many of us, you are wearing jeans with a waist again and rolled up like those in Grease. Ugh.... And shoes... who cares...anything goes!
- Obesity does not exist in the Spanish lifestyle. This is not to say everyone is skinny as a rail and perfect bodies, although most are slender, but you NEVER see a truly obese person here, unless they are a tourist from GB, Germany or US. And believe me, it is not for lack of availability of everything delicious and accessible. What you will not ever see in most of Europe, and especially here, is someone walking around with a large to go drink in their hands, giant sandwiches or massive amounts of junk food. Just as a testament to their healthy lifestyle, Spain has the highest longevity rate of any European country, and second in the world only to Japan.
- Cafe culture is the norm here. Entertaining and socializing is mostly done in the many small cafes that inhabit the city. And it goes on for many hours, but heavy drinking is rarely seen, and loud rowdy scenes don't exist.
- The population is extremely polite and follow the rules. This is exhibited on the streets every day as pedestrians and cyclists interact with the drivers. No angry horns, no raised fists.
- The police force is mostly for gentle crowd control for the many festivals and events held in town. We are in the heart of the city, and I think I have heard sirens about 5 times in the month we have been here. And those may have been ambulances.
- All said, life is good in Spain.
Thursday, April 13, 2017
Bike mania
Puerto Pollensa as we climbed up the hill |
This blog post is for the bikers in my life. We spent 10 days on Majorca in mid-March and it was the best biking vacation we have ever had. Typically it is bike vs. car for dominance on the roads. Here, it is quite the opposite. From mid-February to June 1, bikers rule this island. After June, it is all about the beaches as it gets hot, but now, driver beware.
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The most famous ride on the island. Probably 1000 riders a day while we were there. |
If you are a cyclist, you must come here for at least 10 days and really immerse yourself in the cycling culture that takes over this area. It isn't about the pros that train here, it is all about the clubs that come from Great Britain, Germany, The Netherlands, Belgium and Croatia. Other countries are also represented, but these were the powerhouses. It is also one of the few areas in Europe where you see more women cyclists out on the road. Few as old as me, but at least I am not in the 1% club as usual in France and Italy.
As it is such an international gathering place, it was nice to converse with other English speakers. There are many Brits living here and running businesses and they hope to stay once Brexit takes effect.
Road signs for the cyclists |
The Spanish have made a huge effort to accommodate the cyclists on the island. There is an extensive rural cycle route and fairly good maps. Larry and I still managed to get lost innumerable times, and struggled with our GPS on our phones, which was very hit or miss. Also, these roads were so small they often don't show up on the maps! Fortunately all roads lead back to the coast and we were able to find our way home.
For this trip we have rented bikes everywhere and gone without a car. Miss my bike, but don't miss the hassle of traveling with it!
Beer time! |
Wednesday, March 22, 2017
Spring in Spain
The town square |
In my next life I want to come back as a child in northern Spain. What an ideal life they have here. Every afternoon we spend and hour in the square, which is surrounded by cafes, shops and of course the church. At 4:45, the kids start streaming through the streets, riding scooters, kicking soccer balls playing tag. The parents sit and talk, have a coffee or mineral water and are there to hand out snacks to hungry children. No hovering moms. No orders to share with your brother.... Very refreshing. Everyone is relaxing after a long day at school and work. And another thing.... phones are for talking, not for constant vigilance.
Morning stroll and coffee stop |
We are staying in a town called San Pere de Ribes. It is about 30 miles from Barcelona and 5 from Sitges, which is a very beautiful beach town. Ribes was constantly referred to by the owner of the apartment we are renting as a "village". 29,000 people is not a village, but a nice sized town. It is not particularly quaint, but it does have the obligatory castle and cathedral. This is not a place that gets tourists; this is typical Spanish life. And what a great life it is. If you work in town, you can walk to anyplace you want to go. There are 4 grocery stores, several bakeries and specialty shops, cafes, restaurants, wine bars; all within a 10 minute stroll. If you work in Sitges or Barcelona, the bus leaves often, is very comfortable and is only 2-4 euro per trip. Cafes are everywhere, and always have customers sitting outside with a coffee or other beverage. Affordable to all. Coffees are 1-2 euro and a beer is 1.5 euro.
Our town St. Pere de Ribes |
Yes, I do really admire the Spanish model of life. They take more time for family and recreation than the typical American. More time spent out of the home socializing. A trip to the super market is time to catch up with all of your friends. They do have much smaller homes and apartments and do not make massive sums of money. But their cost of living is so much lower than ours and their consumption a fraction of the typical Americans, that living on 2000e per month as the norm is a very comfortable life.
During our wanderings last week, we happened upon a winery. We decided to stop and try to taste. That was not really an option; that is not the business model here, but we were able to meet the young owner/wine maker. He has studied at Oregon State (my birthplace, Corvallis!) and UC Davis. He has worked at Ehlers Winery in Napa and lived in Angwin, CA. He also knows the owner of the bike tour company we have traveled with several times. Small world. What a great place they have. The property has been in the family since the 1600's and they have been making wine there for centuries.
We have enjoyed our stay in a typical Spanish town. Tomorrow we head to Majorca, where we will be among the tourists again. Also among more English speakers. It has been a challenge to communicate, and always fun when we do run into English speakers. We have observed a number of expats living here, but have had little opportunity to interact with them, as they are not the shopkeepers or wait staff! When we do interact with the Spanish people, and they discover we are Americans, the first topic of conversation is always Trump. All have expressed their confusion and fear for the future. We affect every nation in the world.
Thursday, May 26, 2016
Birdland
Zahara |
They run free most of the day in the back '40. |
Attention all biking friends. You MUST come here for some of the sweetest riding of your life. The roads are quiet, the hills are challenging; but not like the Alps, the views stunning and the people and places friendly and welcoming. Despite the horrible 9 days of rain at the beginning of our trip, May is typically dry and temperate. This is not a place to come in July or August, as it is usually very hot then.
Quiet, smooth roads |
This was a tough climb, for the over fed and under trained |
We have found Spain to be such a friendly country, and so very affordable in this area.
Their economy is doing better, but we still see that so much of the population in the small towns is really OLD, which makes us wonder where these small towns will be in 20 years.
Sierra Nevada. Stark. |
We left our lovely town of Montecorto on Saturday, and made our way to our current location, Velez de Benaudalla, a small, but much busier village near the largest peak and National Park in Spain, Sierra Nevada. We are about 15 miles from the Mediterranean town of Motril and 30 miles south of Granada.
Ziggy takes a cruise on the Med |
Granada is home to Spain's greatest treasure, the Alhambra. We spent a few hours in the gardens and outlying ruins doing the tourist thing. It really is pretty fantastic, and we didn't even get to see the the grand palace. You have to make reservations months in advance....and I didn't.
Garden shot at the Alhambra |
Overlooking Granada |
The riding in this area is not as appealing as it was in the Ronda area of Andalusia. Roads are a bit busier, it is not as green,and everything is a little more run down than anywhere else we have been in Spain. Just not feeling the love here. We are also dealing with a broken rib for Larry, which has slowed his desire to ride.
Sunday, May 8, 2016
Fashion Assassin
Call the fashion police! In my concerted effort to PACK LIGHT, I have made some questionable choices in my rain and cold weather gear. And so far, that is all I have needed here in "sunny" Spain. As I sit in our cozy apartment, high in the hills overlooking Lake Zahara, listening to the rain and wind on our metal roof, wearing the only pair of long pants I brought; my 2 year old yoga pants, my fuchsia shirt and my orange rain coat. I am glad the camera is tucked away in my bag. Nothing to see here....
However, there is a LOT to see in this area. We are in Andalucia, about 30k from Ronda, which is a famous White Hill Town. As you might guess, every building is white, roofs are red, streets are cobbled and narrow and every town is up and or on a hill.
With all of the rain, the hills are very green and the wildflowers are everywhere- red poppy, yellow mustard, something blue and another vibrant yellow flower. Names unknown....
We have our fingers crossed for a chance to ride tomorrow, but the chance of storm has a higher probability.
Hasta Luego!
Zahara, and the beautiful road leading to it. Can't wait to ride here. |
Ziggy high in the hills. |
We have our fingers crossed for a chance to ride tomorrow, but the chance of storm has a higher probability.
Hasta Luego!
Pouring rain in Ronda. High on a hill! |
No poppies, but lots of yellows! |
Monday, July 27, 2015
Une lettre d'amour.
The col de Cayolle, the most beautiful road. |
This love letter is being written to a few things in my life. First. Mon velo. Bicycling has changed my life. I do not make this statement lightly. It is a passion both Larry and I share and it gives us something fun, healthy and challenging to do together. Cycling has defined almost every adventure I have had in the past 15 years; with my girlfriends, with my cousin Mark and his wife Deb, with new friends from around the world and most importantly with Larry. Seeing the world from a bike is so different than from a car, train or bus. Plus, when you are biking a lot, you can eat like a pig.
Secondly, the Alps. They are so magnificent. Rising from valleys of 3,000' to heights of over 9,000', they are truly awe inspiring. The narrow roads wind along raging rivers, up through meadows where Heidi is calling out to Grand-pere, above the tree line to the cols where you can see for miles, and miles and miles...(sing along time) However, there is one cursed creature in the alps... les mouches.... If there is any justice in this world, there really should be a special place in hell reserved for our horrid people. That place would be completely filled with these small, hovering, biting black flies. There would also be thousands of motorcycle riders passing them as they struggle up a hill..... But if there is any bike ride in the world more perfect than the Col de Cayolle, I want to know about it.
Every where you look... |
Thirdly, to France. Such a complicated, diverse, beautiful and wonderful country. We have spent many months of our lives here and still we come back for more. Putting why I love it here into words is very difficult, as many things in day to day life for Americans would drive them crazy. The stairs. No A/C. Buildings from who knows what century made into apartments. Walking to the store every day. Seldom driving. No one picking up dog poop! But to sit in the square every afternoon just outside our apartment, watching the families, the cyclists, the hikers, the hardworking shop owners, the dogs; everyone very happy, enjoying the moment, savoring life. Taking the time for that cup of coffee, ice cream cone; beer, not running off to the next event. Yes, I know we are all on vacation, but it is still different than how things are for me at home. That is why we travel!
My blog has been rather sporadic this year. Firstly, we have re-visited several places where we spent lots of time last year, and I didn't want to repeat myself too much. Secondly, internet has been challenging in many of the places we have stayed. There will be more posts to come, but "Look out your rock and rollers, ch-ch-ch-changes...." Ziggy will be on the move... with a new cast of characters.
And I will close as every commercial transaction ends in France..... Merci. Au revoir. Bon journee!
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