Une lettre d'amour.

 The col de Cayolle, the most beautiful road.

This love letter is being written to a few things in my life.  First.  Mon velo.  Bicycling has changed my life. I do not make this statement lightly.  It is a passion both Larry and I share and it gives us something fun, healthy and challenging to do together.  Cycling has defined almost every adventure I have had in the past 15 years; with my girlfriends, with my cousin Mark and his wife Deb, with new friends from around the world and most importantly with Larry.  Seeing the world from a bike is so different than from a car, train or bus. Plus, when you are biking a lot, you can eat like a pig.

Secondly, the Alps.  They are so magnificent.  Rising from valleys of 3,000' to heights of over 9,000', they are truly awe inspiring.  The narrow roads wind along raging rivers, up through meadows where Heidi is calling out to Grand-pere, above the tree line to the cols where you can see for miles, and miles and miles...(sing along time)  However, there is one cursed creature in the alps... les mouches.... If there is any justice in this world, there  really should be a special place in hell reserved for our horrid people. That place would be  completely filled with these small, hovering, biting black flies.  There would also be thousands of motorcycle riders passing them as they struggle up a hill..... But if there is any bike ride in the world more perfect than the Col de Cayolle, I want to know about it.

Every where you look...

Thirdly, to France.  Such a complicated, diverse, beautiful and wonderful country.  We have spent many months of our lives here and still we come back for more.  Putting why I love it here into words is very difficult, as many things in day to day life for Americans would drive them crazy.  The stairs.  No A/C. Buildings from who knows what century made into apartments.  Walking to the store every day.  Seldom driving.  No one picking up dog poop!  But to sit in the square every afternoon just outside our apartment, watching the families, the cyclists, the hikers, the hardworking shop owners, the dogs; everyone very happy, enjoying the moment, savoring life.  Taking the time for that cup of coffee, ice cream cone; beer, not running off to the next event. Yes, I know we are all on vacation, but it is still different than how things are for me at home.  That is why we travel!

My blog has been rather sporadic this year. Firstly, we have re-visited several places where we spent lots of time last year, and I didn't want to repeat myself too much. Secondly, internet has been challenging in many of the places we have stayed. There will be more posts to come, but "Look out your rock and rollers, ch-ch-ch-changes...."  Ziggy will be on the move... with a new cast of characters.

And I will close as every commercial transaction ends in France..... Merci. Au revoir. Bon journee!

High times!

So many mountains to climb, so few weeks left to do so.....

At the top of Luz d'Ardien

 Our 10 days in Argeles-Gazost flew by in a haze of bike rides, hours spent on the computer in the hotel lobby making future plans and hot afternoons by the swimming pool, trying to stay cool.

We continue to be the riders that undertake one big climb per day, not like the usually younger (but not always) more aggressive riders who will go for 3 summits a day.  Seriously, who ARE these guys?
I know we are both so happy to be able to still get out there, do the climbs and then come home and justify the hearty lunch followed by a nap! Not to mention the late afternoon fluid replacement at the local watering hole.  One observation so far; not many women ride over here, and even rarer is to see someone my age.  I am finally a 1%er!  Most of the male riders are 35-55, but to see a TOFF is not at all unusual. (Tough Old French Fart) Larry fits right in....

Above the clouds, Hautacam.

We have been dealing with a few first world problems with internet access. Along with my daily bread pilgrimage, finding internet access, and even more difficult, a power outlet, have become a daily challenge.  Fortunately, most towns have a public WiFi source, but they are all unsecured, so making hotel or flight reservations cannot be done.  No banking either.  Right now I am using the hotel across from our apartment, which requires I buy a beer to take up space.  Oh, the sacrifices I make for writing this blog.                                         

The cathedral at Lourdes

We spent a day doing some tourist activities in Lourdes.  There are hundreds of thousands of people that come through the hospital and cathedral every year seeking cures.  Busloads of pilgrims.  I hope it brings them and their family some peace.  It was a day to count our blessings and a reminder to live every day to the fullest.

Seeking the blessing of St. Bernadette

People have asked us about our life over here, and I want to tell you, it is as quiet here as it is at home.  We always rent apartments so we have room to spread out, can cook all of our meals and have as comfortable a place to hang as possible. Right now we are in the "city" center of Barcelonette, up 4 flights of stairs. Next week we will be a bit further out of the center, so Ziggy will be able to go out the front door unescorted.  Those 4 flights get our attention after the 4th trip up for the day.  We also spend more time over here seeking provisions.  Often, like this week, we don't have a freezer, so shopping happens every other day. We have found the food prices here to be so much cheaper than in the US.  Selection very good.  We seldom go out to eat, as that would deplete our budget quickly.  We make up for it in afternoon beer purchases, seeking internet connections.

Two things that would improve life in Europe immensely would be window screens and ceiling fans.  There is little airconditioning in these old buildings, and nights are very warm.  My most prized possession on this trip is my 14euro electric fan.  It has saved what little sanity I have left. 

The Tour de France comes through here next Wednesday.  The place will be ROCKIN'!

A votre sante!

Le bien-etre, or the well-being is the theme of our current home, Bagneres de Luchon.  We are nestled in a lush, beautiful valley, surrounded by the Pyrenees. It is a spa town with a very famous "wet cave" for the respiratory ailments and the hot thermal pools for the aches and pains.  There is a steady parade every morning at 7:30 with the over 60 crowd carrying their plastic bags holding their swim suits, plastic shoes and swim caps, on their way to take the "cures", which are prescribed by the many doctors in town.  About 1 hour later the streets are filled with large groups of cyclists taking off for their day on the hills.

Ready to take the cure...

Luchon is stately and old, and definitely La Grande Dame de Les Pyrenees.  She is like your great aunt who had the old family home, with the fading Persian carpets, slightly shabby furniture and a bit of peeling paint on the side of the house.  The streets are wide, lined with magnificent tall trees and grand old apartment buildings and hotels.  It was the first ski area in the Pyrenees, with a gondola that starts in town and ends at the base of the ski area 4,000' above us.  It is quite the bike ride; 18k long, but the skiers are zipped up there in 20 minutes. So civilized!

Looking out from the top of Super Bagneres.

The Pyrenees are vast and rich in history.  There are small towns that dot the hillsides and hug the banks of the rivers.  There are post card perfect towns everywhere you look that you will have never heard of.

Cierp-Gard. 

As very few Americans will ever visit this area unless you are a crazy cyclist, here is a link for some armchair tourism.  http://www.luchon.com/

We have been doing our share of cycling here.  The well know cols, the Peyresourde, Portillon, Super Bagneres and Col de Bales have all been in the Tour de France (TdF henceforth!).  We did all of them, one at a time, over the week.  On Saturday as we slogged up the Portillon from the Spanish side, we met this guy at the top....

I am in awe!

He was doing all of the above, in one day. And the Port de Bales from both directions!  Over 12,000' of climbing.  Equivalent to the death ride, only by himself and just out for a weekend spin... Also, he told us he was 48 years old....Looked 32.

Relaxing at the top of Port de Bales.

Most of our rides have gone well.  Then yesterday we had some technical problems.  Larry snapped his rear gear cable, of course in the highest gear, and couldn't ride up the Col de Mente.  It was very steep and 11 K long.  Also about 100 degrees in the sun.  Fortunately, we got a ride to the top from a good Samaritan.

Off tomorrow for 10 days in Argeles-Gazost, another biking, hiking and skiing mecca in the Pyrenees.  Less like your stately old aunt, and more like that fun cousin who is always ready to play. It is very close to Lourdes, the town like your sleazy uncle who always is trying to sell you a bad deal...

Benvengut a Espanya

We pulled up stakes from our quiet area in France on Saturday to make our way to Girona, Spain.  It is in the heart of Catalunya, so what little Spanish I do speak is almost worthless.

As we left the banks of the Loire Lateral Canal, I said goodby to the last flat bike ride I will have for the next 6 weeks.

How flat can you get?

 I also had to stock up on my vin de Burgonne, as it is not that easy to find in Espana. Mama likes her Chardonnay....

We did buy 2 nice bottles, but all others about 5euro. 

We are in Girona for a week to participate in the Girona Gran Fondo.  It is going to be tough for us, as we have not had very many hills to train on since we arrived over here, and our cycling season takes the winter off in Tahoe. It is easier to make excuses than to just admit we are old and out of shape.

With the exception of Paris, Girona is the most international city I think I have ever visited.  It is a popular destination for many reasons. It is a medieval walled city; has a very old Jewish quarter, a rich history in the arts and trade, and in recent history, has become the cycling mecca for professional riders.  It probably didn't start with Lance Armstrong, but he certainly brought the spotlight to this area when he made it his off season training headquarters.  Many pros followed and now there are skinny people in lyrca everywhere. And where the pros go to ride, so follow all of the avid recreational cyclists with the tours and cycling events to

Some of the surrounding hills. Yes, we rode them...

accompany them.  The riding here has been beautiful; albeit warm and challenging. There have been group rides and events every day this week to go along with the bike event on Saturday, and the participants are from around the globe.  Larry and I are probably the oldest, and maybe the slowest.  It has been very humbling.

At the start of the hill climb competition

What I love about being in a city in Europe, and maybe Spain in particular,  is the way people take the time to sit in a small cafe and have a coffee and talk with their friends.  It is so accessible here compared to in the US. Firstly, most cities have large pedestrian mall areas where only commercial vehicles can enter.  The other big factor is price.  To sit and have a coffee is about 3euro or less for 2 people.  And 2 beers about  4 euro. What else is remarkable is the fact there are no "to go" drinks or fountain sodas in large paper cups.  You SIT, have your coca or cafe con leche brought to you in the bottle with a glass and ice or in your cup on a saucer. Just so relaxed and civilized!

Despite hearing every language in the world spoken here, there is one common thread holding everyone together.

                                             GELATO


 There must be 30 gelato stores within the 1 square kilometer of our apartment. What keeps me riding during the day is the reward of my gelato at night as I walk Ziggy.   So many flavors, so little time.

Adios. Ciao. Au revoir. Cheers, mate. Aufweidersehen. Goodby for now.

The road(s) not taken

The road to nowhere, on the road again, road scholar, the road goes on forever, (and the party never ends), country roads, another roadside attraction, and all roads lead to.........

We are in a very rural area of France.  On the Loire River and Lateral Canal.  Just across the river from Bourgonne (Burgandy). And as you might guess from my intro,  there are more roads per square mile than varicose veins on a woman with 19 children. But who is counting. These roads sometimes go to villages of 5 homes, that have made it to the map and road signs. We can ride for miles and never see more than 3 or 4 cars.  There are also well marked Velo routes with many people doing multi-day tours.

On our side of the Loire River, it is all farms, very flat, and small villages.  We are much further east than the famous Chateaus, but there are some small, abandoned estates around the area.

Just a small place along the road.

We are also on the canal, which in the old days was used for trade and transportation, with the ingenious design of the locks which allowed for navigation on rivers that had large elevation gains and losses.  There are hundreds of miles of canals and locks throughout Europe, with most of them in France, Holland, Belgium and Germany.  With a few exceptions, these navigable waters are now the playground for older adults who enjoy the quiet life on the water.  Just imagine floating RV's with easy access to good wine, fresh produce and bread, the occasional restaurant and citizens from every country assembling each evening as the sun sets, and you have set the scene for adult camp on the river. You have new best friends every day.

One of the larger boats.

This area of France does have a few larger towns, of about 1,000 inhabitants,but they are all about 20-40 miles apart.  The striking thing I notice as we ride along is the sheer number of homes for sale.  Either in towns or out in the middle of nowhere.  Prices range  from the low 60,000 to who knows where, but for the most part they are on the low end, and  in need of some TLC. The French village life seems to be dying out, with a very difficult sustainable business model.  Unless you inherit the family farm, there is no other work.  And we are in the Hooterville of France, where internet is very slow, if at all, and tourism is about 1-2 hours away. (with the exception of the rivers/canals in the summer)  It is very pretty, the people are friendly, but there isn't much to do other than ride our bikes.  So ride we do!

One of our many roads to nowhere!

I always try to "go native" when I travel; live as the locals do, shop where they do, etc.  We are not out plowing any fields, but we are renting a small house in the country, shopping locally and drinking local wine and beer!

You know you are in France when.....

We have returned to France, where we will be spending 7 of the next 8 weeks.  France is much maligned by many, but also adored by many more.  Obviously, we must like it here to spend so much time and money in this country.  The Dutch love to visit here, but don't dare to drink the water! The Belgians look down their nose at their work ethic.  The Americans think they are rude and Socialists.  For myself, I drink the water, think they are very resourceful, I find them exceedingly polite, and I stay out of their politics.  

The beautiful town of Honfleur, FR

  You know you have arrived in France when:

The freeways become the Peage....(pay/toll road)

There are nicely kept and frequent Aire (rest stops with restaurants and gas) along the route.

The automatic toll booths do not accept your American credit card as we have no chip, and the "help" person about bites your head off for being in the wrong lane. ( Just keep smiling ...:::)

Every person entering a store or business is greeted with Bon jour.

Everything is SO green. Flowers grow everywhere, especially out of the centuries old stone walls of houses.
Roses are abundant.

It is light until 10 p.m.

Weed-eaters go until dark...







If you live in even a remotely touristed area you will rent out part of your home.

Just 2 of the 5 in our small village (about 15 homes total)

Just down the street....

Because of their resourcefulness, a typical scene on a work day.

Fishing along the Rance

You know you are in France when you are riding along, and another rider begins to talk to you, and within 5 seconds of finding out you are American, has to say something disparaging about Armstrong.

Bikers are given respect on the road. Cars slow and wait to pass.

Art and beauty are everywhere.

The super-marche has the tarte tatin on special for e3.50, and it is delicious!

Bread is such a major part of the diet here.  My daily pilgrimage will sometimes take precedence over all else to  make sure the boulangerie will be open.

Many stores still close for 2 hours mid-day, Sundays and holidays.

Today is a holiday.  Yesterday was Sunday. Sad face.  Stale bread.

The cheese, yogurt, butter etc. are all so delicious, and full fat!  (have to give those statins something to do)

Cows are freaking everywhere!

The French have the most fierce pride in not only their country, but also of the area where they live.  Somewhat like our states, but on a much smaller, regional scale.  This also may be why wines are labeled by region, not by grape variety.

The French Tourist office is amazing.  And there is one in almost every town.

It is the most visited country in the world.

Tourists....

And so our journeys go.....
viva la France!

The entrance to the lovely city of Sant-Malo

Go Dutch!

Holland-American SS Rotterdam

The Dutch are the most positive, kind spirited and energetic people I have ever met.  And this despite their poor climate and a diet that consists mainly of raw fish, french fries and mayonnaise.  They remain cheerful under the cloudy skies and almost constant 20mph wind, riding their bikes with their beautiful children on the front and back, hauling their groceries in their panniers and walking along the beautiful canals.

Amsterdam was very busy as it was a national holiday; Ascension Day.  Who knew?  Obviously everyone but us heathens.  We were lucky to meet up with our good friends Maureen and Paul. We did a canal cruise which kept us out of the cold and wind for much of the time.   I kept looking for all of the things that Amsterdam is famous for, but other than the canals and frites, I didn't see a thing.  I did get a whiff but that was all.

The bike path system in the cities is a sight to behold.  So well organized and safe, unless you have stupid Americans walking around. We had a couple of close calls!

Just one level of the bike garage.

                     

Estimated 300,000 bikes inside

Cube houses in Rotterdam

Market Place

  After our two days in Amsterdam, we were taken under the large wings of the Warmerdam family.  I have never seen so many tall, handsome people in my life. They were celebrating having Maureen and Paul back in the fold, and were kind enough to include us in the festivities.  After a beautiful party on Saturday, we all descended upon Liane and Randall in Rotterdam where we toured the beautiful city.  It is a clean and modern city and the largest port in the  world. This was the place of embarkation for the Warmerdams and millions others like them right after the war as they immigrated to the US.

Pottertjes, hot Dutch delicacy served with butter and sugar

Dutch homes are typically built very narrow and tall.
For the tallest people in the world, they have the
tiniest and steepest stairs ever encountered.

STEEP stairs

Beautiful bike path.  Look before you walk!

Packing for the moon: Or how to fit 10lbs of crap into a 5lb bag.

When planning for any trip, much of the anticipation about the upcoming adventure involves shopping for the perfect travel clothes, comfortable but stylish walking shoes, the jacket that will go with everything, and that perfect little dress for that special night out with your sweetie.  Oh, and they better not make you look old and fat in those pictures you are going to share!  Then you pull out that bag that you know you can manage up the inevitable broken escalator in the train station and that adorable little shoulder bag to carry on the plane with your "essentials" for the flight.  Next you lay out your clothes, your electronics, your cosmetics and to add to the disaster that is emerging on your bedroom floor, all of the necessary tools and supplies for biking.

Ok, deep breath, the bike stuff can go in the bike box.  But only 70 lbs! The box and bike alone weighs about 50.  Oh, this is not looking good for those cute boots I was hoping to wear around Amsterdam.

We are again getting ready to embark on another adventure lasting for 5 months, traveling with Ziggy, our bikes and one suitcase each.  This time I had also hoped to carry along a better kitchen survival kit, with a good knife, a French coffee press, some sort of spice starter kit, my yoga mat, Ziggy's bed... you get the idea.

The 5 pairs of pants just became 3. The 3 sweaters-1.  Don't talk about the shoe problem.  I am not ready for that conversation yet.

In my mind I am also thinking about things I will miss about home, the US and my daily life. First and foremost is my daily walk and talk with my sister, Janet, as she drives to work and I walk Zigs. My family and friends. There are my yoga and spin classes, and my friends that attend with me. My comfortable and familiar house.... I also know I have weighed myself for the last time in 5 months.  Used my last garbage disposal, and probably my last clothes dryer.  I have enough peanut butter for about 10 days. Ditto the hot mocha mix... But travel is all about change.  Of your environment, your perceptions, your daily routine. I am ready for the next chapter. To infinity, and Croatia!