Une lettre d'amour.

 The col de Cayolle, the most beautiful road.

This love letter is being written to a few things in my life.  First.  Mon velo.  Bicycling has changed my life. I do not make this statement lightly.  It is a passion both Larry and I share and it gives us something fun, healthy and challenging to do together.  Cycling has defined almost every adventure I have had in the past 15 years; with my girlfriends, with my cousin Mark and his wife Deb, with new friends from around the world and most importantly with Larry.  Seeing the world from a bike is so different than from a car, train or bus. Plus, when you are biking a lot, you can eat like a pig.

Secondly, the Alps.  They are so magnificent.  Rising from valleys of 3,000' to heights of over 9,000', they are truly awe inspiring.  The narrow roads wind along raging rivers, up through meadows where Heidi is calling out to Grand-pere, above the tree line to the cols where you can see for miles, and miles and miles...(sing along time)  However, there is one cursed creature in the alps... les mouches.... If there is any justice in this world, there  really should be a special place in hell reserved for our horrid people. That place would be  completely filled with these small, hovering, biting black flies.  There would also be thousands of motorcycle riders passing them as they struggle up a hill..... But if there is any bike ride in the world more perfect than the Col de Cayolle, I want to know about it.

Every where you look...

Thirdly, to France.  Such a complicated, diverse, beautiful and wonderful country.  We have spent many months of our lives here and still we come back for more.  Putting why I love it here into words is very difficult, as many things in day to day life for Americans would drive them crazy.  The stairs.  No A/C. Buildings from who knows what century made into apartments.  Walking to the store every day.  Seldom driving.  No one picking up dog poop!  But to sit in the square every afternoon just outside our apartment, watching the families, the cyclists, the hikers, the hardworking shop owners, the dogs; everyone very happy, enjoying the moment, savoring life.  Taking the time for that cup of coffee, ice cream cone; beer, not running off to the next event. Yes, I know we are all on vacation, but it is still different than how things are for me at home.  That is why we travel!

My blog has been rather sporadic this year. Firstly, we have re-visited several places where we spent lots of time last year, and I didn't want to repeat myself too much. Secondly, internet has been challenging in many of the places we have stayed. There will be more posts to come, but "Look out your rock and rollers, ch-ch-ch-changes...."  Ziggy will be on the move... with a new cast of characters.

And I will close as every commercial transaction ends in France..... Merci. Au revoir. Bon journee!

High times!

So many mountains to climb, so few weeks left to do so.....

At the top of Luz d'Ardien

 Our 10 days in Argeles-Gazost flew by in a haze of bike rides, hours spent on the computer in the hotel lobby making future plans and hot afternoons by the swimming pool, trying to stay cool.

We continue to be the riders that undertake one big climb per day, not like the usually younger (but not always) more aggressive riders who will go for 3 summits a day.  Seriously, who ARE these guys?
I know we are both so happy to be able to still get out there, do the climbs and then come home and justify the hearty lunch followed by a nap! Not to mention the late afternoon fluid replacement at the local watering hole.  One observation so far; not many women ride over here, and even rarer is to see someone my age.  I am finally a 1%er!  Most of the male riders are 35-55, but to see a TOFF is not at all unusual. (Tough Old French Fart) Larry fits right in....

Above the clouds, Hautacam.

We have been dealing with a few first world problems with internet access. Along with my daily bread pilgrimage, finding internet access, and even more difficult, a power outlet, have become a daily challenge.  Fortunately, most towns have a public WiFi source, but they are all unsecured, so making hotel or flight reservations cannot be done.  No banking either.  Right now I am using the hotel across from our apartment, which requires I buy a beer to take up space.  Oh, the sacrifices I make for writing this blog.                                         

The cathedral at Lourdes

We spent a day doing some tourist activities in Lourdes.  There are hundreds of thousands of people that come through the hospital and cathedral every year seeking cures.  Busloads of pilgrims.  I hope it brings them and their family some peace.  It was a day to count our blessings and a reminder to live every day to the fullest.

Seeking the blessing of St. Bernadette

People have asked us about our life over here, and I want to tell you, it is as quiet here as it is at home.  We always rent apartments so we have room to spread out, can cook all of our meals and have as comfortable a place to hang as possible. Right now we are in the "city" center of Barcelonette, up 4 flights of stairs. Next week we will be a bit further out of the center, so Ziggy will be able to go out the front door unescorted.  Those 4 flights get our attention after the 4th trip up for the day.  We also spend more time over here seeking provisions.  Often, like this week, we don't have a freezer, so shopping happens every other day. We have found the food prices here to be so much cheaper than in the US.  Selection very good.  We seldom go out to eat, as that would deplete our budget quickly.  We make up for it in afternoon beer purchases, seeking internet connections.

Two things that would improve life in Europe immensely would be window screens and ceiling fans.  There is little airconditioning in these old buildings, and nights are very warm.  My most prized possession on this trip is my 14euro electric fan.  It has saved what little sanity I have left. 

The Tour de France comes through here next Wednesday.  The place will be ROCKIN'!