The road(s) not taken

The road to nowhere, on the road again, road scholar, the road goes on forever, (and the party never ends), country roads, another roadside attraction, and all roads lead to.........

We are in a very rural area of France.  On the Loire River and Lateral Canal.  Just across the river from Bourgonne (Burgandy). And as you might guess from my intro,  there are more roads per square mile than varicose veins on a woman with 19 children. But who is counting. These roads sometimes go to villages of 5 homes, that have made it to the map and road signs. We can ride for miles and never see more than 3 or 4 cars.  There are also well marked Velo routes with many people doing multi-day tours.

On our side of the Loire River, it is all farms, very flat, and small villages.  We are much further east than the famous Chateaus, but there are some small, abandoned estates around the area.

Just a small place along the road.

We are also on the canal, which in the old days was used for trade and transportation, with the ingenious design of the locks which allowed for navigation on rivers that had large elevation gains and losses.  There are hundreds of miles of canals and locks throughout Europe, with most of them in France, Holland, Belgium and Germany.  With a few exceptions, these navigable waters are now the playground for older adults who enjoy the quiet life on the water.  Just imagine floating RV's with easy access to good wine, fresh produce and bread, the occasional restaurant and citizens from every country assembling each evening as the sun sets, and you have set the scene for adult camp on the river. You have new best friends every day.

One of the larger boats.

This area of France does have a few larger towns, of about 1,000 inhabitants,but they are all about 20-40 miles apart.  The striking thing I notice as we ride along is the sheer number of homes for sale.  Either in towns or out in the middle of nowhere.  Prices range  from the low 60,000 to who knows where, but for the most part they are on the low end, and  in need of some TLC. The French village life seems to be dying out, with a very difficult sustainable business model.  Unless you inherit the family farm, there is no other work.  And we are in the Hooterville of France, where internet is very slow, if at all, and tourism is about 1-2 hours away. (with the exception of the rivers/canals in the summer)  It is very pretty, the people are friendly, but there isn't much to do other than ride our bikes.  So ride we do!

One of our many roads to nowhere!

I always try to "go native" when I travel; live as the locals do, shop where they do, etc.  We are not out plowing any fields, but we are renting a small house in the country, shopping locally and drinking local wine and beer!

You know you are in France when.....

We have returned to France, where we will be spending 7 of the next 8 weeks.  France is much maligned by many, but also adored by many more.  Obviously, we must like it here to spend so much time and money in this country.  The Dutch love to visit here, but don't dare to drink the water! The Belgians look down their nose at their work ethic.  The Americans think they are rude and Socialists.  For myself, I drink the water, think they are very resourceful, I find them exceedingly polite, and I stay out of their politics.  

The beautiful town of Honfleur, FR

  You know you have arrived in France when:

The freeways become the Peage....(pay/toll road)

There are nicely kept and frequent Aire (rest stops with restaurants and gas) along the route.

The automatic toll booths do not accept your American credit card as we have no chip, and the "help" person about bites your head off for being in the wrong lane. ( Just keep smiling ...:::)

Every person entering a store or business is greeted with Bon jour.

Everything is SO green. Flowers grow everywhere, especially out of the centuries old stone walls of houses.
Roses are abundant.

It is light until 10 p.m.

Weed-eaters go until dark...







If you live in even a remotely touristed area you will rent out part of your home.

Just 2 of the 5 in our small village (about 15 homes total)

Just down the street....

Because of their resourcefulness, a typical scene on a work day.

Fishing along the Rance

You know you are in France when you are riding along, and another rider begins to talk to you, and within 5 seconds of finding out you are American, has to say something disparaging about Armstrong.

Bikers are given respect on the road. Cars slow and wait to pass.

Art and beauty are everywhere.

The super-marche has the tarte tatin on special for e3.50, and it is delicious!

Bread is such a major part of the diet here.  My daily pilgrimage will sometimes take precedence over all else to  make sure the boulangerie will be open.

Many stores still close for 2 hours mid-day, Sundays and holidays.

Today is a holiday.  Yesterday was Sunday. Sad face.  Stale bread.

The cheese, yogurt, butter etc. are all so delicious, and full fat!  (have to give those statins something to do)

Cows are freaking everywhere!

The French have the most fierce pride in not only their country, but also of the area where they live.  Somewhat like our states, but on a much smaller, regional scale.  This also may be why wines are labeled by region, not by grape variety.

The French Tourist office is amazing.  And there is one in almost every town.

It is the most visited country in the world.

Tourists....

And so our journeys go.....
viva la France!

The entrance to the lovely city of Sant-Malo

Go Dutch!

Holland-American SS Rotterdam

The Dutch are the most positive, kind spirited and energetic people I have ever met.  And this despite their poor climate and a diet that consists mainly of raw fish, french fries and mayonnaise.  They remain cheerful under the cloudy skies and almost constant 20mph wind, riding their bikes with their beautiful children on the front and back, hauling their groceries in their panniers and walking along the beautiful canals.

Amsterdam was very busy as it was a national holiday; Ascension Day.  Who knew?  Obviously everyone but us heathens.  We were lucky to meet up with our good friends Maureen and Paul. We did a canal cruise which kept us out of the cold and wind for much of the time.   I kept looking for all of the things that Amsterdam is famous for, but other than the canals and frites, I didn't see a thing.  I did get a whiff but that was all.

The bike path system in the cities is a sight to behold.  So well organized and safe, unless you have stupid Americans walking around. We had a couple of close calls!

Just one level of the bike garage.

                     

Estimated 300,000 bikes inside

Cube houses in Rotterdam

Market Place

  After our two days in Amsterdam, we were taken under the large wings of the Warmerdam family.  I have never seen so many tall, handsome people in my life. They were celebrating having Maureen and Paul back in the fold, and were kind enough to include us in the festivities.  After a beautiful party on Saturday, we all descended upon Liane and Randall in Rotterdam where we toured the beautiful city.  It is a clean and modern city and the largest port in the  world. This was the place of embarkation for the Warmerdams and millions others like them right after the war as they immigrated to the US.

Pottertjes, hot Dutch delicacy served with butter and sugar

Dutch homes are typically built very narrow and tall.
For the tallest people in the world, they have the
tiniest and steepest stairs ever encountered.

STEEP stairs

Beautiful bike path.  Look before you walk!

Packing for the moon: Or how to fit 10lbs of crap into a 5lb bag.

When planning for any trip, much of the anticipation about the upcoming adventure involves shopping for the perfect travel clothes, comfortable but stylish walking shoes, the jacket that will go with everything, and that perfect little dress for that special night out with your sweetie.  Oh, and they better not make you look old and fat in those pictures you are going to share!  Then you pull out that bag that you know you can manage up the inevitable broken escalator in the train station and that adorable little shoulder bag to carry on the plane with your "essentials" for the flight.  Next you lay out your clothes, your electronics, your cosmetics and to add to the disaster that is emerging on your bedroom floor, all of the necessary tools and supplies for biking.

Ok, deep breath, the bike stuff can go in the bike box.  But only 70 lbs! The box and bike alone weighs about 50.  Oh, this is not looking good for those cute boots I was hoping to wear around Amsterdam.

We are again getting ready to embark on another adventure lasting for 5 months, traveling with Ziggy, our bikes and one suitcase each.  This time I had also hoped to carry along a better kitchen survival kit, with a good knife, a French coffee press, some sort of spice starter kit, my yoga mat, Ziggy's bed... you get the idea.

The 5 pairs of pants just became 3. The 3 sweaters-1.  Don't talk about the shoe problem.  I am not ready for that conversation yet.

In my mind I am also thinking about things I will miss about home, the US and my daily life. First and foremost is my daily walk and talk with my sister, Janet, as she drives to work and I walk Zigs. My family and friends. There are my yoga and spin classes, and my friends that attend with me. My comfortable and familiar house.... I also know I have weighed myself for the last time in 5 months.  Used my last garbage disposal, and probably my last clothes dryer.  I have enough peanut butter for about 10 days. Ditto the hot mocha mix... But travel is all about change.  Of your environment, your perceptions, your daily routine. I am ready for the next chapter. To infinity, and Croatia!

Colorful Colorado!

Our view from the deck.

We are still traveling.  After 6 weeks in Santa Rosa, bouncing from my mother's home to a house sitting job and back again, we have hit the road.  Visiting our wonderful friends in Truckee with a peek at our house, which we will inhabit again in 2 weeks was just a warm up for our 2 week sojourn to our old stomping grounds; beautiful Colorado.  Our drive here through Nevada and Utah were a reminder of just how beautiful the American West is.  I will never relocate to Elko or Grand Junction; just a bit too isolated and well, just not my kind of place. I could never have a big enough pick-up....


Just a few shots of our two days on the bike in the                                                                          
Roaring Fork Valley.  October is a great time to be here.

I guess this is why they call it Aspen

Maroon Bells

Time flies when you are having fun!

How did this happen so fast?  Our trip is over except for the awful part....flying home. We are dreading the next 36 hours, but know that this too, shall pass.

We spent the last 10 days in Austria, without a doubt one of the most beautiful countries in the world.  It is the second time I have visited and I would love to go back if it ever stops raining there for more than 2 days. We spent 3 nights in Innsbruck, and we loved the old part of the city.  The river Inn runs through the valley, and it was swollen almost to flood levels. There are many museums to visit, sausages to taste, beers to drink and coffee and pastry to sample. The Alps surround you, and there are miles and miles of bike and hiking trails right in town and leading to the many ski areas. Very stunning, if the clouds lift.

Busy streets of Innsbruck

Larry and I were joined by my dear cousin Mark and his wonderful wife Deb for the Austrian adventure.  Our plan was to ride hard and wear ourselves out before our return to California.  We got in 3 days of riding and lots of scrabble. 

A curious thing is happening in Austria, parts of Switzerland and Germany. The Arab tourists have descended upon the region in droves.  Who can blame them for wanting to escape the heat of the Arab summers!  It is just such a culture clash to see the women in this Alpine environment completely covered in veils, headscarves and lots of full burkas. The Austrians are clucking their tongues all the way to the bank....

Risking being the ugly American and culturally insensitive by snapping this photo in Zell em See

I find Austria to be a bit confused about its lifestyle also.  They have a country of beautiful mountains and ski areas, kilometer after kilometer of bike paths and walking trails, a population that embraces the outdoors and the active lifestyle and more smokers than anywhere else we have been; followed closely by the Germans.  Austria is the only place where smoking has still been allowed in restaurants and most public places.  Odd contradictions!

Amazingly large hammock on the bike path.

We celebrated a milestone on this trip.  My dear husband had a significant birthday last week.  We didn't get too rowdy; just lunch out in town in the rain.

Happy birthday, Lar-bear

 

 

 

 

A few more shots of the crowd on the deck, on the bikes and the little train in the valley chugging back and forth.

A real steam engine, and the sweetest whistle

More birthday toasts

Our big day of biking in Zell em See

We left Austria and headed to Munich for one night.  Love that city. So clean, interesting, charming; very German!  Had a walk down memory lane as we (especially Larry) spent a lot of time there in the late 80's. 

Below is the obligatory Glockenspeil picture on the Marienplatz.  Full of tourists from every corner of the world!  But the sun was out!

(Have I mentioned how much it has rained this year???)

We have driven for the past 3 days making our way to Paris, where we will fly out Tuesday morning.

It has been an amazing adventure, and I recommend a trip like this for everyone.  I hope to follow up soon with some final reflections. Thank you for reading.  See you soon!

Soggy Doggy

I will begin again with the weather report.  Wet.  The wettest year in many in this area.  Just wish we could send some of it to California!

A shrine for cyclist atop Passo Gavia

We have been in the Bormio, Italy area for the past 8 days.  We started in a small condo about 5K up the mountain overlooking town and the mountain ranges.  Very cold up there! We are now down in town at a very comfy condo close to the source of some of the delicious dairy products found in this region...

Looking down from our condo into the valley.

This part of Italy is a very Alpine environment, and sometimes you would have to wonder if it is Austria, Germany, Switzerland or Italy where you are currently residing.  The style of houses in all those areas is very similar, the abundance of geraniums cascading out of window boxes has me vowing to try harder to make mine grow next summer in Truckee. 

Great flowers, bad building example.

 Along with this Alpine environment comes a lot of wood chopping for winter fires. (And summer fires, for that matter!) There are many examples of awesome wood stacking, which seems to be a competitive sport here, but we have declared this guy the winner for artistic merit!

Wood stacker extraordinaire!

There are three famous rides out of this area, and the Passo Stelvio is the most famous of them all. The highest, the most switchbacks and by far the most popular.  With everyone.  Sooooooo many people on the road and at the top it is a circus atmosphere. Skiing, biking, hiking, motorcycles, cars, campers, vendors, photographers, restaurants.... All in an area about the size of the parking lot of your local library. 

Just one side of the four corners of action. I will remind you, this is also a 2 way road!

About 1/2 way up the Stelvio

The view from the top!

The Stelvio goes up to over 9,000'.  As you are riding up, at about 7,000' you start to wonder if your brake is rubbing or if you have a flat tire. By 8,500 you are convinced you are the weakest rider in the world, by 9,000', you are watching the tenths of a mile tick off on the odometer, knowing what the final number should be and really hoping you are going to make it there!

 

  We made it!

The photo op below the circus at the very top!