Spring in Spain

The town square

In my next life I want to come back as a child in northern Spain.  What an ideal life they have here. Every afternoon we spend and hour in the square, which is surrounded by cafes, shops and of course the church. At 4:45, the kids start streaming through the streets, riding scooters, kicking soccer balls playing tag.  The parents sit and talk, have a coffee or mineral water and are there to hand out snacks to hungry children.  No hovering moms. No orders to share with your brother.... Very refreshing. Everyone is relaxing after a long day at school and work.  And another thing.... phones are for talking, not for constant vigilance.

Morning stroll and coffee stop

We are staying in a town called San Pere de Ribes.  It is about 30 miles from Barcelona and 5 from Sitges, which is a very beautiful beach town.  Ribes was constantly referred to by the owner of the apartment we are renting as a "village".  29,000 people is not a village, but a nice sized town. It is not particularly quaint, but it does have the obligatory castle and cathedral.  This is not a place that gets tourists; this is typical Spanish life. And what a great life it is.  If you work in town, you can walk to anyplace you want to go.  There are 4 grocery stores, several bakeries and specialty shops, cafes, restaurants, wine bars; all within a 10 minute stroll.  If you work in Sitges or Barcelona, the bus leaves often, is very comfortable and is only 2-4 euro per trip.  Cafes are everywhere, and always have customers sitting outside with a coffee or other beverage.  Affordable to all.  Coffees are 1-2 euro and a beer is 1.5 euro.

Our town St. Pere de Ribes

And don't think all the Spaniards do is sit in the cafes and bars.  There is a large sports facility just down the way from us that is busy all day long.  Soccer games ran all weekend, swimming, paddle ball, mountain biking groups; all gather there.  But not to worry, there is a bar/cafe there too....

Yes, I do really admire the Spanish model of life.  They take more time for family and recreation than the typical American.  More time spent out of the home socializing.  A trip to the super market is time to catch up with all of your friends.  They do have much smaller homes and apartments and do not make massive sums of money.  But their cost of living is so much lower than ours and their consumption a fraction of the typical Americans, that living on 2000e per month as the norm is a very comfortable life.



During our wanderings last week, we happened upon a winery.  We decided to stop and try to taste. That was not really an option; that is not the business model here, but we were able to meet the young owner/wine maker.  He has studied at Oregon State (my birthplace, Corvallis!) and UC Davis.  He has worked at Ehlers Winery in Napa and lived in Angwin, CA. He also knows the owner of the bike tour company we have traveled with several times.  Small world.  What a great place they have.  The property has been in the family since the 1600's and they have been making wine there for centuries.

We have enjoyed our stay in a typical Spanish town.  Tomorrow we head to Majorca, where we will be among the tourists again. Also among more English speakers.  It has been a challenge to communicate, and always fun when we do run into English speakers.  We have observed a number of expats living here, but have had little opportunity to interact with them, as they are not the shopkeepers or wait staff!  When we do interact with the Spanish people, and they discover we are Americans, the first topic of conversation is always Trump.  All have expressed their confusion and fear for the future.  We affect every nation in the world.

Birdland

Zahara

We were surrounded by the constant sounds of birds in our last location. Directly behind our pool (yes, we had a private pool last week) there was a roost for pigeons, turkeys, chickens and doves. And I just want to say to all of you chicken owners, REALLY?? Why? They never sleep!  In addition to the domesticated birds, this area is a haven for songbirds.  When I talked to my sister on the phone, she could barely hear me over the sound of the birds. I have a sound file, but can't seem to download it to this blog.  You will just have to listen to it next time you spend time with me....

They run free most of the day in the back '40.

Attention all biking friends.  You MUST come here for some of the sweetest riding of your life.  The roads are quiet, the hills are challenging; but not like the Alps, the views stunning and the people and places friendly and welcoming. Despite the horrible 9 days of rain at the beginning of our trip,  May is typically dry and temperate.  This is not a place to come in July or August, as it is usually very hot then.

Quiet, smooth roads

This was a tough climb, for the over fed and under trained

We have found Spain to be such a friendly country, and so very affordable in this area.
Their economy is doing better, but we still see that so much of the population in the small towns is really OLD, which makes us wonder where these small towns will be in 20 years.

Sierra Nevada.  Stark.

We left our lovely town of Montecorto on Saturday, and made our way to our current location, Velez de Benaudalla, a small, but much busier village near the largest peak and National Park in Spain, Sierra Nevada.  We are about 15 miles from the Mediterranean town of Motril and 30 miles south of Granada.

Ziggy takes a cruise on the Med

Granada is home to Spain's greatest treasure, the Alhambra.  We spent a few hours in the gardens and outlying ruins doing the tourist thing.  It really is pretty fantastic, and we didn't even get to see the the grand palace.  You have to make reservations months in advance....and I didn't.

Garden shot at the Alhambra

Overlooking Granada

The riding in this area is not as appealing as it was in the Ronda area of Andalusia. Roads are a bit busier, it is not as green,and everything is a little more run down than anywhere else we have been in Spain.  Just not feeling the love here.  We are also dealing with a broken rib for Larry, which has slowed his desire to ride.

Fashion Assassin

Call the fashion police! In my concerted effort to PACK LIGHT, I have made some questionable choices in my rain and cold weather gear.  And so far, that is all I have needed here in "sunny" Spain.  As I sit in our cozy apartment, high in the hills overlooking Lake Zahara, listening to the rain and wind on our metal roof, wearing the only pair of long pants I brought; my 2 year old yoga pants, my fuchsia shirt and my orange rain coat.  I am glad the camera is tucked away in my bag.  Nothing to see here....

Zahara, and the beautiful road leading to it. Can't wait to ride here.

However, there is a LOT to see in this area.  We are in Andalucia, about 30k from Ronda, which is a famous White Hill Town. As you might guess, every building is white, roofs are red, streets are cobbled and narrow and every town is up and or on a hill.

Ziggy high in the hills.

With all of the rain, the hills are very green and the wildflowers are everywhere- red poppy, yellow mustard, something blue and another vibrant yellow flower. Names unknown....



We have our fingers crossed for a chance to ride tomorrow, but the chance of storm has a higher probability.

Hasta Luego!

Pouring rain in Ronda. High on a hill!

No poppies, but lots of yellows!

Une lettre d'amour.

 The col de Cayolle, the most beautiful road.

This love letter is being written to a few things in my life.  First.  Mon velo.  Bicycling has changed my life. I do not make this statement lightly.  It is a passion both Larry and I share and it gives us something fun, healthy and challenging to do together.  Cycling has defined almost every adventure I have had in the past 15 years; with my girlfriends, with my cousin Mark and his wife Deb, with new friends from around the world and most importantly with Larry.  Seeing the world from a bike is so different than from a car, train or bus. Plus, when you are biking a lot, you can eat like a pig.

Secondly, the Alps.  They are so magnificent.  Rising from valleys of 3,000' to heights of over 9,000', they are truly awe inspiring.  The narrow roads wind along raging rivers, up through meadows where Heidi is calling out to Grand-pere, above the tree line to the cols where you can see for miles, and miles and miles...(sing along time)  However, there is one cursed creature in the alps... les mouches.... If there is any justice in this world, there  really should be a special place in hell reserved for our horrid people. That place would be  completely filled with these small, hovering, biting black flies.  There would also be thousands of motorcycle riders passing them as they struggle up a hill..... But if there is any bike ride in the world more perfect than the Col de Cayolle, I want to know about it.

Every where you look...

Thirdly, to France.  Such a complicated, diverse, beautiful and wonderful country.  We have spent many months of our lives here and still we come back for more.  Putting why I love it here into words is very difficult, as many things in day to day life for Americans would drive them crazy.  The stairs.  No A/C. Buildings from who knows what century made into apartments.  Walking to the store every day.  Seldom driving.  No one picking up dog poop!  But to sit in the square every afternoon just outside our apartment, watching the families, the cyclists, the hikers, the hardworking shop owners, the dogs; everyone very happy, enjoying the moment, savoring life.  Taking the time for that cup of coffee, ice cream cone; beer, not running off to the next event. Yes, I know we are all on vacation, but it is still different than how things are for me at home.  That is why we travel!

My blog has been rather sporadic this year. Firstly, we have re-visited several places where we spent lots of time last year, and I didn't want to repeat myself too much. Secondly, internet has been challenging in many of the places we have stayed. There will be more posts to come, but "Look out your rock and rollers, ch-ch-ch-changes...."  Ziggy will be on the move... with a new cast of characters.

And I will close as every commercial transaction ends in France..... Merci. Au revoir. Bon journee!

High times!

So many mountains to climb, so few weeks left to do so.....

At the top of Luz d'Ardien

 Our 10 days in Argeles-Gazost flew by in a haze of bike rides, hours spent on the computer in the hotel lobby making future plans and hot afternoons by the swimming pool, trying to stay cool.

We continue to be the riders that undertake one big climb per day, not like the usually younger (but not always) more aggressive riders who will go for 3 summits a day.  Seriously, who ARE these guys?
I know we are both so happy to be able to still get out there, do the climbs and then come home and justify the hearty lunch followed by a nap! Not to mention the late afternoon fluid replacement at the local watering hole.  One observation so far; not many women ride over here, and even rarer is to see someone my age.  I am finally a 1%er!  Most of the male riders are 35-55, but to see a TOFF is not at all unusual. (Tough Old French Fart) Larry fits right in....

Above the clouds, Hautacam.

We have been dealing with a few first world problems with internet access. Along with my daily bread pilgrimage, finding internet access, and even more difficult, a power outlet, have become a daily challenge.  Fortunately, most towns have a public WiFi source, but they are all unsecured, so making hotel or flight reservations cannot be done.  No banking either.  Right now I am using the hotel across from our apartment, which requires I buy a beer to take up space.  Oh, the sacrifices I make for writing this blog.                                         

The cathedral at Lourdes

We spent a day doing some tourist activities in Lourdes.  There are hundreds of thousands of people that come through the hospital and cathedral every year seeking cures.  Busloads of pilgrims.  I hope it brings them and their family some peace.  It was a day to count our blessings and a reminder to live every day to the fullest.

Seeking the blessing of St. Bernadette

People have asked us about our life over here, and I want to tell you, it is as quiet here as it is at home.  We always rent apartments so we have room to spread out, can cook all of our meals and have as comfortable a place to hang as possible. Right now we are in the "city" center of Barcelonette, up 4 flights of stairs. Next week we will be a bit further out of the center, so Ziggy will be able to go out the front door unescorted.  Those 4 flights get our attention after the 4th trip up for the day.  We also spend more time over here seeking provisions.  Often, like this week, we don't have a freezer, so shopping happens every other day. We have found the food prices here to be so much cheaper than in the US.  Selection very good.  We seldom go out to eat, as that would deplete our budget quickly.  We make up for it in afternoon beer purchases, seeking internet connections.

Two things that would improve life in Europe immensely would be window screens and ceiling fans.  There is little airconditioning in these old buildings, and nights are very warm.  My most prized possession on this trip is my 14euro electric fan.  It has saved what little sanity I have left. 

The Tour de France comes through here next Wednesday.  The place will be ROCKIN'!

A votre sante!

Le bien-etre, or the well-being is the theme of our current home, Bagneres de Luchon.  We are nestled in a lush, beautiful valley, surrounded by the Pyrenees. It is a spa town with a very famous "wet cave" for the respiratory ailments and the hot thermal pools for the aches and pains.  There is a steady parade every morning at 7:30 with the over 60 crowd carrying their plastic bags holding their swim suits, plastic shoes and swim caps, on their way to take the "cures", which are prescribed by the many doctors in town.  About 1 hour later the streets are filled with large groups of cyclists taking off for their day on the hills.

Ready to take the cure...

Luchon is stately and old, and definitely La Grande Dame de Les Pyrenees.  She is like your great aunt who had the old family home, with the fading Persian carpets, slightly shabby furniture and a bit of peeling paint on the side of the house.  The streets are wide, lined with magnificent tall trees and grand old apartment buildings and hotels.  It was the first ski area in the Pyrenees, with a gondola that starts in town and ends at the base of the ski area 4,000' above us.  It is quite the bike ride; 18k long, but the skiers are zipped up there in 20 minutes. So civilized!

Looking out from the top of Super Bagneres.

The Pyrenees are vast and rich in history.  There are small towns that dot the hillsides and hug the banks of the rivers.  There are post card perfect towns everywhere you look that you will have never heard of.

Cierp-Gard. 

As very few Americans will ever visit this area unless you are a crazy cyclist, here is a link for some armchair tourism.  http://www.luchon.com/

We have been doing our share of cycling here.  The well know cols, the Peyresourde, Portillon, Super Bagneres and Col de Bales have all been in the Tour de France (TdF henceforth!).  We did all of them, one at a time, over the week.  On Saturday as we slogged up the Portillon from the Spanish side, we met this guy at the top....

I am in awe!

He was doing all of the above, in one day. And the Port de Bales from both directions!  Over 12,000' of climbing.  Equivalent to the death ride, only by himself and just out for a weekend spin... Also, he told us he was 48 years old....Looked 32.

Relaxing at the top of Port de Bales.

Most of our rides have gone well.  Then yesterday we had some technical problems.  Larry snapped his rear gear cable, of course in the highest gear, and couldn't ride up the Col de Mente.  It was very steep and 11 K long.  Also about 100 degrees in the sun.  Fortunately, we got a ride to the top from a good Samaritan.

Off tomorrow for 10 days in Argeles-Gazost, another biking, hiking and skiing mecca in the Pyrenees.  Less like your stately old aunt, and more like that fun cousin who is always ready to play. It is very close to Lourdes, the town like your sleazy uncle who always is trying to sell you a bad deal...

Benvengut a Espanya

We pulled up stakes from our quiet area in France on Saturday to make our way to Girona, Spain.  It is in the heart of Catalunya, so what little Spanish I do speak is almost worthless.

As we left the banks of the Loire Lateral Canal, I said goodby to the last flat bike ride I will have for the next 6 weeks.

How flat can you get?

 I also had to stock up on my vin de Burgonne, as it is not that easy to find in Espana. Mama likes her Chardonnay....

We did buy 2 nice bottles, but all others about 5euro. 

We are in Girona for a week to participate in the Girona Gran Fondo.  It is going to be tough for us, as we have not had very many hills to train on since we arrived over here, and our cycling season takes the winter off in Tahoe. It is easier to make excuses than to just admit we are old and out of shape.

With the exception of Paris, Girona is the most international city I think I have ever visited.  It is a popular destination for many reasons. It is a medieval walled city; has a very old Jewish quarter, a rich history in the arts and trade, and in recent history, has become the cycling mecca for professional riders.  It probably didn't start with Lance Armstrong, but he certainly brought the spotlight to this area when he made it his off season training headquarters.  Many pros followed and now there are skinny people in lyrca everywhere. And where the pros go to ride, so follow all of the avid recreational cyclists with the tours and cycling events to

Some of the surrounding hills. Yes, we rode them...

accompany them.  The riding here has been beautiful; albeit warm and challenging. There have been group rides and events every day this week to go along with the bike event on Saturday, and the participants are from around the globe.  Larry and I are probably the oldest, and maybe the slowest.  It has been very humbling.

At the start of the hill climb competition

What I love about being in a city in Europe, and maybe Spain in particular,  is the way people take the time to sit in a small cafe and have a coffee and talk with their friends.  It is so accessible here compared to in the US. Firstly, most cities have large pedestrian mall areas where only commercial vehicles can enter.  The other big factor is price.  To sit and have a coffee is about 3euro or less for 2 people.  And 2 beers about  4 euro. What else is remarkable is the fact there are no "to go" drinks or fountain sodas in large paper cups.  You SIT, have your coca or cafe con leche brought to you in the bottle with a glass and ice or in your cup on a saucer. Just so relaxed and civilized!

Despite hearing every language in the world spoken here, there is one common thread holding everyone together.

                                             GELATO


 There must be 30 gelato stores within the 1 square kilometer of our apartment. What keeps me riding during the day is the reward of my gelato at night as I walk Ziggy.   So many flavors, so little time.

Adios. Ciao. Au revoir. Cheers, mate. Aufweidersehen. Goodby for now.